Glow in the dark…

The day before yesterday I rode a slightly staggering 60 miles, going the long way round to avoid the motorway ( incidentally passing the 1000 mile mark!!!!) and so that I could keep to my youth hostel arrangement in Nyköping.
My dormitory was occupied to the full, with every available surface strewn with the copious contents of my room-mate’s bags, which she kindly pushed to one side despite painful blisters from new shoes. I don’t know why, but I seem doomed to upstairs rooms when at a low ebb… It takes 4, well thought out journeys to offload the bike and even more thought to manage the heavily sprung doors! The reverse was such a scream I was nearly bursting… 6.00am clearly not a time for being woken, I tiptoed everything out (4 panniers, tent plus mat, bar bag, all sorts of swishy clangy clutter ) so quietly that there wasn’t even the slightest stirring and then had to squeak and click back in to retrieve my mobile phone… Phew! It’s so much easier to get dressed on the landing, while there’s nobody about.
Knowing how tired I was, I went against the judgement that says ‘best time to ride is morning’ and MADE myself potter around for a while. ( besides which, the cream with coffee to celebrate the mileage the night before had not gone down too well) Although this was in some ways fatal to the plan, it meant I sat in complete ecstasy watching a fabulous display of demolition. A prehistoric monster eyeing up it’s prey with such a quizzical tilt of it’s beaked jaws before lightening quick flashy swivel and CRUNCH TUG NUDGE WORRY and clouds of dust and rockfall leaving the corner of an unsightly industrial tower gaping: I was totally transfixed, as were several grandfathers, mothers, maybe toddlers ( not so sure) and guys along the way.
One of the many enjoyable sights in Sweden has been the copper coloured sturdy thighs worn by many women in shorts. They gleam with enviable consistency and demonstrate the robust and active nature of their owners. Mine, by contrast are stripey, patchy and wrecked by midges. Oh well!
After a wearying 18 miles I spotted a Youth Hostel sign and gratefully postponed the more distant goal. Unbeknown to me, Horsvik YH is bang opposite a nuclear waste depot, with rather foreboding steel security gates and a big tower. When I learnt this from Elisabeth, the receptionist, I couldn’t resist it… “so you have only one ear on each side? It’s ok here then?” quick as a wink she came back with ” but we are glowing in the dark”
The only glow that interested me was the most beautiful sunset out over the water ( a little 6 mile run) amongst pink granite, low-lying mini islands, strung together with bouncy suspension bridges and covered in heathers, mosses and small conifers.
Earlier I went into a deep sleep in the first bath-tub for 7 weeks. HEAVEN!
I am now just outside Trosa also named Världens Ände (said Verldens Ende) don’t know why. If you look at the map, you’ll see that to get to Nynashäm I have to go up north then back down south to negotiate the beautiful coast lines of this area. From here I am planning to take a ferry across to Gdansk. I will feel just as much of a pull to leave magnificent Sweden as I did when I left the delicate beauty of Denmark. I have started practicing a few essential Polish phrases, though, and even though I feel daunted by the prospect of the unknown, I am excited, too.
Rather a lot of words tonight. Bye for now.

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2 Responses to Glow in the dark…

  1. Jessica Bark says:

    Hi Jenny!

    Jessica from Trosa here! I must tell you what an impression you left with me! Your journey is such an inspiration, I admire your courage and the passion that I saw in you, talking about your trip, about music, you were like a piece of fresh air streaming through when you came to us. I felt free in spirit with your presence in the shop. Thankyou!
    Be safe and be well.

    X, Jess

  2. wendy h says:

    Hi there Jenny
    So amazing to read all these adventures. thank you for keeping us in touch – it helps to tell people I don’t even know that you are truly Ok I’ve told a few folk that you have passed the 1.000
    mile mark and their jaws drop – to a man/woman.
    Watched the Carnival tonight and was strangely comforted by it.
    Good turn out and a few more things than just beauty queens – after a really rainy morning the sun came out to bless the little girls and boys in their scanty costumes – a friend said he was glad they weren’t all freezing – we have had early autumnal mornings.
    I’ve met Jane – she is sweet and she said to send her love to you when I contact you – sorry I forgot when you phoned me – I was in mild shock even after I came off the phone and sorry Andrew wasn’t around to marvel with me.
    I’m off on my bike tomorrow – to the station and then a 2 hour ride to the caravan from Truro – nothing to your efforts but as much as my feeble frame can stand – I’ve had a few bad nights again. My whole system is so used to not sleeping it only takes a small thing to keep me awake most of the night still. Hoping this will all calm down eventually.
    Sitting watching a medium good sunset today – I’ve never seen so many wonderful ones so often as the time I have spent here.
    Hope all is well with you – Andrew and i will be home by next Thursday all being well.
    I don’t feel I can take anything for granted any more – life is so full of uncertainties and upheaval for so many nowadays. “Normal” has faded from my horizon. I embrace all this in different moods and to different degrees depending all kinds of things.
    The cows opposite are not there today – wonder where they are – I find it so satisfying to watch their quiet stillness
    Lots of love Jenny and more power to those legs, knees and your wonderful spine

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