I had a fascinating time sketching in the Ethnographical Museum yesterday, surrounded by wonderful costumes and all the fabric of every day life and custom. Crockery, beautiful old and contemporary woven rugs, highly decorative embroidered linen… The substance of the dowry (parafernum… Could this relate to parafenalia?) plough shares, immense wooly shepherd’s coats, aprons (sounding something like curtain!) and cribs, toys and magnificent pipes. Marvellous photos from the early 1900’s and also not so very long ago in the 60’s of villagers performing Nativity plays, St. Stephen’s day carols, boys rolling on the ground laughing while they recite verses for St. Lucy celebrations and more! Then over lunch, Zoly told me the story of “Stone Soup” while we ate in a restaurant named just that… “Kőleves”… A real Hungarian feast in so many ways.
Traditional St. Stephen’s ‘Goat Mask’ with the coat worn inside out
Crockery and a gorgeous rug bag
Jane was sure this elegant woman was speaking Italian, I thought I heard Hungarian… Whichever it was, she really knows how to wear a hat!
The ‘people’ sketches are memory impressions.
Another little discovery. If you sit for long enough in one of the many highly sociable and relaxing thermal spas of Budapest at a temperature of 38 degrees, it is no hardship to venture back out into the cold until the effective indoor heating of most places takes over!
With all those hats, sheepskins and furs, and a regular routine of hot baths, I can see that it is all possible.
What seems so impossible is the plight of 2 regular metro corridor sleepers. They have a relatively warm spot, and so far they have not been moved on, but as I passed them today, 2 very hefty policeman were standing over them.